New Dwarves available to Advance Order for Kings of War

Mantic is taking pre-orders for new Dwarf units coming out for Kings of War.


From the announcement:

Kings of War is the game of epic fantasy battles, where mighty warriors fight against powerful soldiers in the name of conquest and victory. The world is littered with conflict, though perhaps none as well known as the War of the Quartz Sceptre.

Fought between the Dwarfs and their Abyssal Kin, the War of the Quartz Sceptre is a defining moment in the history of these two warring factions, and now you can join the fight with the new Hellfire and Stone Kings of War supplement.

Presented as a full colour A4 book, Hellfire and Stone is the first narrative campaign for Kings of War, featuring six scenarios that allow you to play through the entire story, as well as painting and modeling guides, an optional Dwarf King’s Hold Scenario and the background behind the epic battles.

Hellfire and Stone plus a selection of new units for the Dwarfs and Abyssal Dwarfs, including Sveri Egilax, a prominent Berserker Lord who rides into battle on his mighty Helbrokk, sprueless plastic Berserker Brock Riders and Immortal Guard, as well as new heroes, infantry sets and army boxes (the Abyssal Dwarfs one contains units not released individually until the end of May!!) are now available to pre-order and will begin shipping on the 25th April.

  • Haibane


    • Heh, they’re cute. I wish Mantic would go back to doing mostly polystyrene.

      • 4tonmantis

        Agreed.. Styrene and Metal are my two favorite materials followed by resin and then Bonesium.. then play-doh, bubble gum, and finally restic..

        • you need to slot papermache into that order somewhere….

  • Hexenjaeger

    Long live Finecast!

  • scarletsquig

    Restic isn’t that bad, you just have to hot water bend all the warped bits, spend 20 minutes per mini filing off the mould lines, greenstuff all the gaps then assemble 8 tiny pieces with superglue. After that you’ll have a mini to be proud of!

    For bonus points you can slice the flash off with a knife and maybe get a cool scar or three to impress the ladies with.

    • You make it sound so easy 😀 – It’s taken me… well since I received my Sedition Wars KS I have not been able to finish any restic figure. I have butchered one and it only took 3 secs, but I doubt that counts.

      • 4tonmantis

        In fairness.. in Studio McVey at least took care to put seams in places that didn’t seem engineered by the mother-flippin devil (or a blind kid). The seams on the Mantic figures have me thinking “all work and no play makes Jack a dull boy” on repeat..

        • Soulfinger

          So never having touched restic, is it like board game plastic, like the stuff FFG uses for Mansions of Madness or Talisman, or what? Maybe something closer to Reaper Bones? It sounds truly horrendous. The only place I’ve read positive comments about the stuff is on Mantic’s forum, where it is said to blow Finecast out of the water and cure scrofula.

          • Major_Gilbear

            There are a few salient issues with Restic (and similar) that many people really dislike:

            1) It’s hard to clean. The mould lines are often best removed by slicing them off with a sharp scalpel, and scraping or filing them instead tends to “shred” the surface leaving it rough.

            2) To get reasonable undercuts, the moulds often have removable sections beyond the two main mould halves, and this means that there is often rather more to clean up than just one mould line all the way round the figure.

            3) The level of fine detail captured is poor compared to traditional plastic miniatures (like those produced by Renedra), and compared to metals. It’s not terrible, but it’s defiantly not as sharp. For example, faces often look a bit flat-nosed and squashed, and hard edges usually end up looking fairly soft.

            4) Because of (3) above, fine details like banner poles, aerials, antennae, long weapon barrels, etc often come out rather badly. Bent at a minimum, but they often don’t cast brilliantly in the first place anyway, and always remain quite bendy no matter what.

            5) They often come “off the sprue” in little baggies. The parts often look like they were badly ripped from a frame, and “tearing” damage on the models’ surface is hard to fix as per (1) above.

            However, there are a few things to note as well:

            1) It’s cheap like plastic, but with tooling costs that are much lower than traditional hard styrene.

            2) If you file the mould lines off, it is possible to return the shredded surface to a decent finish if you scrub the area firmly with a small brass wire brush.

            3) You get fewer parts than a multi-part plastic model, which despite the compound mould lines on the Restic model, still means fewer mould lines overall. The Restic mould lines still take forever to remove properly though.

            4) It glues and paints just fine.

            5) Restic is still waaay better than boardgame bendy plastic.

          • Actually restic is a plastisol. It’s a pvc solution and can be spincast which is supercheap. Since it melts in very low temperatures and is milky in consitence it doesn’t need high pressure molds which is why it’s supercheap to cast other than the material being cheap. There are different mixtures of pvc and resins and that gives the different companies “restic” different qualities. One of the reasons they are bent is because they are removed when still warm and soft and can take the punishment of being “popped” out of molds with undercuts. It’s also one of the reasons it’s less pieces. the multipart slide-core molds that major gilbear is talking about are generally more expensive and while used I’d imagine they are limited. A good read:


            Read the post from Jim Brokaw close to the bottom. it explains it in more detail.

            “Restic” is nothing new – it’s generally what action figures are made of.

            Bones is also pvc, but much softer and is actually easier to clean although the details have the same issues.

            Boardgame pieces are also the same material. Like I mentioned there are simply different mixtures, but the main component of PVC being what makes this material a poopoo for “high standard” miniatures.

            I have an extensive collection of large scale vinyl figure kits so I am no stranger to pvc. The diffference being that it lends itself perfectly for large scale. Do a search on Horizon vinyl, Screamin’ vinyl, Tsukuda, Halcyon, Billiken, Geometric Designs etc and you’ll see examples of old vinyl kits. The production method for these molds is completely different (electroforming I think) and leaves them completely free of moldlines. The part breaks hide all the seams so basically all you ever need to do is fill any pinholes (airbubbles) and fill an occasional joint. THe only thing you cut off is the excess vinyl from one side and that side is almost always the side you glue or “pop” into a socket. Often enough you need to bend a part so a hairdryer is your best mate. You still need to slice and good luck filing.

          • Major_Gilbear

            …Yeah, I did post more than a wiki entry – glad you took the time to read it.

          • Major_Gilbear

            Weird, I could have sworn I clicked “Reply” to 4tonmantis’ post below and not Basement Dweller’s??

          • 4tonmantis

            I actually didn’t mean that as an insult.. I was just saying you guys were laying out facts and stuff and I thought that posting a comparison style reply to help him establish an understanding based on materials I know he’s worked with might be additionally helpful.. It would have been pointless for me to reply with more facts and definitions.. Relax man.. I did read your post and you are a special snow flake gives cookie and gold star

          • Major_Gilbear

            “For me it’s the tactile equivalent of running your fingernails along a chalkboard.”

            Yeah, because personally I always want some luvvy answer delivered in patronising tone when I ask a question. Although, of course, I didn’t mean that as an insult!

          • 4tonmantis

            I don’t know if English is your first language.. but tactile is the feel.. so when I am scraping or carving on restic it reminds me of running my fingers on a chalkboard.. that’s what that statement means. Sorry your comprehension’s not so good. I can give you more cookies and stars if it will help..

          • Soulfinger

            I once had a player punch a hole through a wall because he lost a game of rock-paper-scissor at a LARP. This reminds me of that. I’m grateful to both of you guys for excellent answers with different perspectives.

          • 4tonmantis

            It looks like everyone gave you a wikipedia style definition.. I’ll just draw comparisons.
            You know the hard plastic heroquest and other boardgame figures are made from? It’s similar in hardness to that except that it has a weird flexible nature that causes it to absorb force when you try carving or doing other similar modeling techniques.
            For me it’s the tactile equivalent of running your fingernails along a chalkboard.
            When you try to do seamlines you have to carve them kinda like bones.. except that the material fights you instead of cutting too easily (it’s like the opposite ends of the spectrum of bonesium). Then, the filings/scrapings/peelings hang on to the model requiring the use of a file or wire brush. Arm swaps and similar are comparable to resin conversions. Filing or sanding is not particularly effective unless you use plastic needles, diamond files, or extremely fine grit sanding materials… because while the material is hard.. .it’s also soft enough that it picks up the grit and leaves deep striations wherever you attempted to work.
            What’s that? Circular patterns? Brilliant.. except that now there are circular striations.. The only word that I could use to classify it is sh*t. Yeah it’s cheap(ish) but I have a great number of figures from Reaper’s Bones series and they are typically similar or better in retaining the details and they are entirely easier to work with. Actually.. I keep hearing about how cheap restic is.. but Mantic’s prices are really NOT that great. If restic is so cheap then why are the hard plastics from Wargames Factory so much cheaper?

  • Soulfinger

    Thanks guys. I really appreciate the detailed responses. Basement_Dweller bringing up the different mixes gives me a good idea of what you are talking about. I kind of recall now that FFG’s Mansions of Madness figures were PVC, which as my first experience with something not metal, hard plastic, or resin was terrible. I remember practically crapping myself in anticipation of receiving that game, envisioning the hard plastic figures that would be inside. Opening it, my heart sank. The figures were bendy, rubbery-feeling. Better than typical board game figures (non-wargamer types would be thrilled), but not at all tabletop standard. I figured that the prominent mold lines on the Chthonian would be a breeze to file off. No such luck. It was like trying to scour the grease paint off KISS. I was reminded of the Austin Powers’ line, “WHY WONT YOU DIE!?”

    Reaper Bones worked out way better. The detail is . . . well, kind of like taking a trip in the Way Back Machine, and again, the issue with bendy parts, but really not that bad of an experience overall — especially once you factor in the price from the KS. The idea of working with something that isn’t as good as styrene or resin but actually harder to work with than PVC is rather daunting. The best plastics that I ever worked with were the old GW khaki-colored styrene figures, like the 30-man beakie marines for Rogue Trader and the old Epic sprues. I miss those crisp casts and workability.

    Why is Wargames Factory so cheap? The workers own the means of production! Sort of. I love the story behind Wargames Factory.