Comments on: Gaming in Plastic #9: the magic dip http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713 Daily news, reviews and information for tabletop gamers of all interests. Tue, 02 Dec 2008 00:34:23 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6.3 By: Tacobake http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-21293 Tacobake Mon, 28 Apr 2008 17:21:00 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-21293 Just a comment, the Privateer Press line of paints come in a large bottle and I often describe them as being "very painty". They are noticeably creamy with high pigment coverage. That said, the inks are probably best anyway. Just a comment, the Privateer Press line of paints come in a large bottle and I often describe them as being “very painty”. They are noticeably creamy with high pigment coverage. That said, the inks are probably best anyway.

]]> By: Jason Hupka http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-21010 Jason Hupka Thu, 24 Apr 2008 19:06:21 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-21010 This is a great method - I've used for all kinds of figured. The only issues I've had are bubbles (like already stated), and using cheap paints to color the Future Floor Wax. I've found that using cheap craft acrylics (like Applebarrel, Delta, Ceramcoat) tends to cause spotting/grainy shading due to pigment grains being so big. That's probably why a lot of people use inks. So I like to use higher quality acrylics for this or inks. This is a great method - I’ve used for all kinds of figured. The only issues I’ve had are bubbles (like already stated), and using cheap paints to color the Future Floor Wax. I’ve found that using cheap craft acrylics (like Applebarrel, Delta, Ceramcoat) tends to cause spotting/grainy shading due to pigment grains being so big. That’s probably why a lot of people use inks. So I like to use higher quality acrylics for this or inks.

]]> By: nathan http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20806 nathan Mon, 21 Apr 2008 21:31:21 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20806 Soapy water should be fine, but if that doesn't work, Windex/Windolene/Generic Window cleaner will dissolve Future quite easily. So well any ammonia based cleaner or a degreaser like simple green. Soapy water should be fine, but if that doesn’t work, Windex/Windolene/Generic Window cleaner will dissolve Future quite easily. So well any ammonia based cleaner or a degreaser like simple green.

]]> By: kramday http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20795 kramday Mon, 21 Apr 2008 20:14:02 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20795 Thanks for the write-up. I do have one question though. Do you have to do anything special for the cleanup, either with the brushes or the mixing bowl? Thanks for the write-up. I do have one question though. Do you have to do anything special for the cleanup, either with the brushes or the mixing bowl?

]]> By: estrus http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20744 estrus Mon, 21 Apr 2008 04:32:18 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20744 Great info! I tend to go heavy on the darker washes for "gritty" feel. With this method, I can retain that look, as well as add a sealer. Thanks! Great info! I tend to go heavy on the darker washes for “gritty” feel. With this method, I can retain that look, as well as add a sealer. Thanks!

]]> By: Bob http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20737 Bob Sun, 20 Apr 2008 21:56:32 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20737 I've never tried anything besides black and brown but I expect it works like any wash. You get a hint of the colour (depending on the strength of the hue) in the folds and edges). I'd try it on a mini you don't care too much about and see how it works. Yeah, actually dipping seems insane to me--a goopy nightmare! I’ve never tried anything besides black and brown but I expect it works like any wash. You get a hint of the colour (depending on the strength of the hue) in the folds and edges). I’d try it on a mini you don’t care too much about and see how it works.

Yeah, actually dipping seems insane to me–a goopy nightmare!

]]> By: Tacobake http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20729 Tacobake Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:39:25 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20729 You just sold me on this. The 'dip' aspect had always turned me off it, but it is no different from using a wash, really. It's like a varnish and wash at the same time. Can you use different colours with it? Say pink or gray on white, rather than black and brown on "realistic painting". I am thinking Everblight from Hordes, or other fantasy stuff. You just sold me on this.

The ‘dip’ aspect had always turned me off it, but it is no different from using a wash, really. It’s like a varnish and wash at the same time.

Can you use different colours with it? Say pink or gray on white, rather than black and brown on “realistic painting”.

I am thinking Everblight from Hordes, or other fantasy stuff.

]]> By: Bob http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20725 Bob Sun, 20 Apr 2008 14:58:38 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20725 I've been using the dip on everything from 6mm to 54mm in plastic and metals. A friend at the club (all hail Dave!) suggested that mixing a bit of white glue into the mix helps the colour pool, particularly on figures without the deep recesses of metals. I tried this last night with from 1:32-scale plastics ad it seems to work. Took a bit of stirring to get the glue to dissolve into the Future, but the slightly goopier mix did leave some colour in tricky areas (e.g., vertical cloth folds). I’ve been using the dip on everything from 6mm to 54mm in plastic and metals. A friend at the club (all hail Dave!) suggested that mixing a bit of white glue into the mix helps the colour pool, particularly on figures without the deep recesses of metals.

I tried this last night with from 1:32-scale plastics ad it seems to work. Took a bit of stirring to get the glue to dissolve into the Future, but the slightly goopier mix did leave some colour in tricky areas (e.g., vertical cloth folds).

]]> By: mearley http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20719 mearley Sun, 20 Apr 2008 11:50:59 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20719 This is only one version of the 'dip'. Most folks use polyshades polyurethane to perform the dip. It works on any model type--metal, resin, plastic. Also worthwhile to note there is a difference between matte sealer and dullcoat sealer--matte is not as flat as dullcoat. I generally consider it a scale of gloss-->satin-->matte-->dull. This is only one version of the ‘dip’. Most folks use polyshades polyurethane to perform the dip. It works on any model type–metal, resin, plastic.

Also worthwhile to note there is a difference between matte sealer and dullcoat sealer–matte is not as flat as dullcoat. I generally consider it a scale of gloss–>satin–>matte–>dull.

]]> By: Graeme http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20718 Graeme Sun, 20 Apr 2008 11:35:15 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20718 here is a link to a website that lists all the trade names for Future in other countries http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html here is a link to a website that lists all the trade names for Future in other countries

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

]]> By: gavroche http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20716 gavroche Sun, 20 Apr 2008 08:48:55 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20716 Yes, it works just as well with metal figures. And with all scales as Bob points out. I got great results on 54mm figures, though I usually drybush & touch up a bit afterwards. Like Bob, I use a brush, but I also thin with water & work in several layers, rather than everything in one go. Don't know if that is really necessarry, might just be me being fussy ;-) Yes, it works just as well with metal figures. And with all scales as Bob points out. I got great results on 54mm figures, though I usually drybush & touch up a bit afterwards. Like Bob, I use a brush, but I also thin with water & work in several layers, rather than everything in one go. Don’t know if that is really necessarry, might just be me being fussy ;-)

]]> By: trajan http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20714 trajan Sun, 20 Apr 2008 06:52:25 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20714 The title of this article states plastic, but as you mention models in a variety of scales, does this technique work with metal figures as well? It is better to ask this rather than to assume it is so. The title of this article states plastic, but as you mention models in a variety of scales, does this technique work with metal figures as well? It is better to ask this rather than to assume it is so.

]]> By: evernevermore (John) http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/04/19/13713#comment-20713 evernevermore (John) Sun, 20 Apr 2008 01:38:43 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/?p=13713#comment-20713 Very interesting and nicely done. As I understand the floor polish you are looking for is an acrylic - is that what your bottle says? I only know of Future working reliably and have yet to find it in my area. Very interesting and nicely done.

As I understand the floor polish you are looking for is an acrylic - is that what your bottle says? I only know of Future working reliably and have yet to find it in my area.

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