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	<title>Comments on: Painting Matters #4: Common Color Challenges I</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/08/12470/feed" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/08/12470</link>
	<description>Daily news, reviews and information for tabletop gamers of all interests.</description>
	<pubDate>Tue, 06 Jan 2009 01:44:18 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: grimbergen</title>
		<link>http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/08/12470/comment-page-1#comment-17320</link>
		<dc:creator>grimbergen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sun, 10 Feb 2008 06:32:32 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>The Privateer white is transparent -- is that a good thing? I thought most of the time (unless for glazing) you want the whites to be as opaque as possible to give good coverage?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>The Privateer white is transparent &#8212; is that a good thing? I thought most of the time (unless for glazing) you want the whites to be as opaque as possible to give good coverage?</p>
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		<title>By: briguy</title>
		<link>http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/08/12470/comment-page-1#comment-17316</link>
		<dc:creator>briguy</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Feb 2008 18:05:00 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/08/12470#comment-17316</guid>
		<description>This is a fantastic article, and it definitely inspires me to try and challenge myself on my next painting project.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This is a fantastic article, and it definitely inspires me to try and challenge myself on my next painting project.</p>
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		<title>By: evernevermore</title>
		<link>http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/08/12470/comment-page-1#comment-17315</link>
		<dc:creator>evernevermore</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Feb 2008 17:46:39 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Interesting article - though Id suggest that for experimenting just keep an eye out for old minis your FLGS is getting rid of. My store has a pair of totes that they put any old minis, usually orphaned since the manufacturer has gone under, and Ive picked up a few for the simple reason that they looked neat. Gives me something to play with colors on, along with Reaper figs, and still support the LGS

And the comments about mica chips finally explains why Vallejos metal medium produces such interesting results with my minis</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Interesting article - though Id suggest that for experimenting just keep an eye out for old minis your FLGS is getting rid of. My store has a pair of totes that they put any old minis, usually orphaned since the manufacturer has gone under, and Ive picked up a few for the simple reason that they looked neat. Gives me something to play with colors on, along with Reaper figs, and still support the LGS</p>
<p>And the comments about mica chips finally explains why Vallejos metal medium produces such interesting results with my minis</p>
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		<title>By: mathieu</title>
		<link>http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/08/12470/comment-page-1#comment-17314</link>
		<dc:creator>mathieu</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Feb 2008 15:31:33 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Cool article. I've seen the dreaded chalkiness many times myself and had to experience a lot to find paints that don't lead to it.

I can suggest the following paints to avoid chalkiness:

-Privateer Press P3 line - the liquid pigment really keeps its promises, at least for the non-metallic paints. They have the only white I've tried (among hobby ranges and artists ranges alike) that stays perfectly transparent whatever the dilution.

-FW acrylic artists inks - a smaller range, but quite a few very intense colors (purple lake, indian yellow,...). Some colors are 'opaque', other 'transparent', always avoid the former.

-Golden airbrush transparent colors - even more limited range (10 colors), but they happily complement the ones from FW.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cool article. I&#8217;ve seen the dreaded chalkiness many times myself and had to experience a lot to find paints that don&#8217;t lead to it.</p>
<p>I can suggest the following paints to avoid chalkiness:</p>
<p>-Privateer Press P3 line - the liquid pigment really keeps its promises, at least for the non-metallic paints. They have the only white I&#8217;ve tried (among hobby ranges and artists ranges alike) that stays perfectly transparent whatever the dilution.</p>
<p>-FW acrylic artists inks - a smaller range, but quite a few very intense colors (purple lake, indian yellow,&#8230;). Some colors are &#8216;opaque&#8217;, other &#8216;transparent&#8217;, always avoid the former.</p>
<p>-Golden airbrush transparent colors - even more limited range (10 colors), but they happily complement the ones from FW.</p>
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		<title>By: grimbergen</title>
		<link>http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/08/12470/comment-page-1#comment-17308</link>
		<dc:creator>grimbergen</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 09 Feb 2008 07:04:29 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/08/12470#comment-17308</guid>
		<description>Excellent tips. Now I know why my guys end up being so chalky -- the "titanium white" I'm mixing in from the acrylic tubes is the culprit. I didn't realize that titanium actually referred to the metal ingredients; I always that was just a marketing name.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Excellent tips. Now I know why my guys end up being so chalky &#8212; the &#8220;titanium white&#8221; I&#8217;m mixing in from the acrylic tubes is the culprit. I didn&#8217;t realize that titanium actually referred to the metal ingredients; I always that was just a marketing name.</p>
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