Comments on: Gaming in plastic #2: Clean-up, assembly and priming http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/07/12207 Daily news, reviews and information for tabletop gamers of all interests. Tue, 02 Dec 2008 00:39:43 +0000 http://wordpress.org/?v=2.6.3 By: briguy http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/07/12207#comment-17305 briguy Sat, 09 Feb 2008 02:35:37 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/07/12207#comment-17305 This is, yet again, a wonderful introductory article. Thanks for posting this. This is, yet again, a wonderful introductory article. Thanks for posting this.

]]> By: Stu http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/07/12207#comment-17261 Stu Thu, 07 Feb 2008 19:35:36 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/07/12207#comment-17261 Another good article! Another reason for washing your figures after removing them from sprues (and/or assembling them if they're multi-part) is because you've had your greasy mitts all over them! Some manufacturers definitely go overboard on mold release too. Battlefront (Flames of War) for example often used to have noticeably greasy resin pieces. I used to prime by hand so agree with the many of man hats, it definitely gives you a good feel for each figure. However these days I find spray priming saves so much time I simply do that. In fact I spray as much as possible these days, prime and a base coat normally and then hand paint details, highlights etc. Another good article! Another reason for washing your figures after removing them from sprues (and/or assembling them if they’re multi-part) is because you’ve had your greasy mitts all over them! Some manufacturers definitely go overboard on mold release too. Battlefront (Flames of War) for example often used to have noticeably greasy resin pieces.

I used to prime by hand so agree with the many of man hats, it definitely gives you a good feel for each figure. However these days I find spray priming saves so much time I simply do that. In fact I spray as much as possible these days, prime and a base coat normally and then hand paint details, highlights etc.

]]> By: evernevermore http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/07/12207#comment-17246 evernevermore Thu, 07 Feb 2008 13:24:03 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/07/12207#comment-17246 Here's a suggestion for a primer alternative - artist gesso. I use a black guess exclusively now, but they do make white and I beleive you can tint that. Dont know the flexability of the gesso but it works well on my GW and Reaper figs - best suggestion for how to work with it is the one I found on WeeToySoldiers.com - though you'll have to search for the article now. Here’s a suggestion for a primer alternative - artist gesso. I use a black guess exclusively now, but they do make white and I beleive you can tint that.

Dont know the flexability of the gesso but it works well on my GW and Reaper figs - best suggestion for how to work with it is the one I found on WeeToySoldiers.com - though you’ll have to search for the article now.

]]> By: a_thousand_hats http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/07/12207#comment-17242 a_thousand_hats Thu, 07 Feb 2008 09:48:27 +0000 http://www.tabletopgamingnews.com/2008/02/07/12207#comment-17242 Good introduction to the basics. I've been priming my minis by hand painting a coat of white on them recently (not got around to buying another can of car spray paint yet) and it really does slow things down. Although one bonus of priming by hand is that you get a feel for the miniature and the way the brush moves around the sculpt before actually applying the base coats etc. Good introduction to the basics.

I’ve been priming my minis by hand painting a coat of white on them recently (not got around to buying another can of car spray paint yet) and it really does slow things down.

Although one bonus of priming by hand is that you get a feel for the miniature and the way the brush moves around the sculpt before actually applying the base coats etc.

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